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September 14, 2023 12:41 pm | Updated 04:47 pm IST
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Variety of juices at Kunhiraman General Store in Royapuram. | Photo Credit: VELANKANNI RAJ B
This nourishing porridge full of rice, lentils, and delicate masala piquancy, is a Ramzan staple across Tamil Nadu. “People break their fast during the month with the dish but we tend to consume it once a month in my house at least. Then comes the iftar meal,” says Shabnam. A bowl of nombu kanji is also commonly distributed at mosques for the needy, ensuring nourishment for those who may not have enough to fill their stomach after their day-long fast.
At Mannady, a locality in North Chennai, this hug-in-a-bowl is available throughout the year. Nameless vendors on the street sell sizable glasses of kanji at about ₹20. The street offers both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options of the dish with a heaping of mutton kheema for the latter. Shabnam says that drinking nombu kanji almost reminds her of drinking a liquid concoction of biryani. “The spices are very similar,” she says.
The festival saw over 70kilograms of kanji being sold on Sunday alone, she adds.
Nombu kanji is available across Mannady but specifically at Angappan Naicken Street near the Eidgah Mosque neighbourhood.
Nombu kanji being prepared for iftar at the Hazrath Dastagir Sahib Dargah in Chennai. | Photo Credit: RAVINDRAN R
Barakath barbecue is from Chennai’s meat heartland — Dadashamakan — near Otteri. Shabnam says that bodybuilders used to frequent the area to get their share of protein including oxtail soup.
“Many vendors from the area, who are used to their regular, loyal customer base, asked me why they should step out of their comfort zone and sell at a food festival. I asked them to try their hand at it. The owners of Barakath barbeque were pretty thrilled by the response. It was a new audience they were exposing themselves to,” says Shabnam.
The establishment sells a variety of kebabs and specialises in beef delicacies including beef kebabs, cutlets, phal and tawa beef with idiyappam. Shabnam says those who ate at Barakath are keen to visit Dadashamakan.
Kebabs similar to that of Barakath barbeque are priced at ₹80 and are available across through the area.
Malai and sheek kebabs. | Photo Credit: PERIASAMY M
Biryani for breakfast? The staff at KGN Aarifa Biryani Centre in Pulianthope begin their day as early as 2am and cook up a delightfully fragrant feast for the first meal of the day. “The owners of KGN Aarifa used to trade at Aadu Thotti, the butchery at Pulianthope. When they realised that there was a demand for breakfast, they began a small shop selling small packs of biryani. Their shop is now widely known and open through the day,” says Shabnam.
This biryani has well-cooked meat layered in a bed of flavourful rice. Unlike elsewhere in Chennai where a typical side features an aubergine curry, Aarifa’s biryani comes with a mint chutney that has tang to cut through the spices and the lustre of meat. Although the popular theory is that it aids digestion, Shabnam attributes its invention to the owners who kept their customers, primarily daily-wage labourers, in mind to ensure it remained pocket-friendly.
They have also opened their second store in Pattinapakkam.
K.G.N. Aarifa Biryani, Pulianthope and Pattinapakkam, For orderes, call 9840079923.
Biryani at KGN Aarifa, Pulianthope, in Chennai. | Photo Credit: RAVINDRAN R
If you have been to Parry’s yet missed out eating the bun-butter-jam at Gopaul, it is time to hold yourself accountable and make the trip through the area’s snaking bylanes.
This simple tea-time snack is laden with snow-white mounds of butter that reminds one of the Uthukuli variety and generous spoonfuls of mixed fruit jam. The soft, fresh buns are integral to this carefully crafted ensemble. The buns are sliced in four and brim with flavour as you dig in.
Shabnam says that the owners of Gopaul Dairy who are now second-generation business people, were sceptical about stalls, festivals and crowds. They are used to crowds thronging their shop between 11am and 1pm on Phillips Street. They are also familiar with disappointed looks when customers are denied their share of the sweet treat. “They came for one day and were sold out within an hour,” says Shabnam.
G. Gopaul Dairy is at Philips Street and can be contacted at 9952954965.
Making of Bun Butter Jam at G. Gopaul Dairy. | Photo Credit: RAGU R
Van Gogh’s sunflowers and Royapuram’s Kunhiraman have one thing in common — the yellow of the painter’s sunflowers is are the same as Kunhiraman’s mango ice cream and milk. This delightful general store, which takes visitors back to the 1990s, is now famous for its value additions — its juices and ice creams.
Kunhiraman was founded over 60 years ago by Kunhiraman who came to Madras from Calicut after years of hard work. Back then, the area brimmed with members of the Anglo-Indian community who stereotypically loved their mangoes.
Mango ice cream at Kunhiraman General Store
The store owner began finding ways to cater to their demands by freezing the Indian summer fruit and combining it with milk, cream and sugar. The famous mango ice cream was thus born.
Today, the store also has a variety of ice creams including chocolate and blackcurrant for ₹60, grape juice for ₹60 and milkshakes including pista for ₹90.
Find them at North Terminus Road, Chetty Thottam, Royapuram.
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The Hindu MetroPlus / Chennai / food and dining (general)
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