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December 13, 2023 04:30 pm | Updated December 14, 2023 04:32 pm IST
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Bombay Brasserie, College Road | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
There are three parallel strands of conversation at a lunch table comprising a family of eight at Bombay Brasserie, College Road. There is a discussion about love marriages, another about the ICC Cricket World Cup, and the third, about eating Indian food during foreign vacations. All three conversations take a pause when chicken biryani is brought to the table.
Suddenly, an uncle chimes in and says “If you like her, then let us fix it. The families have had an amicable conversation over a meal. What else is left?”. The answer is yes. Congratulations are exchanged. A wedding WhatsApp group is being created as they speak. There is dessert and finally, a fight to pay the bill. The family leaves, the restaurant falls silent and minutes later, a group of four women from the nearby Women’s Christian College, fills the space with chatter and giggles again. Lunch-time noise ensues and balance is restored.
For years, the Bombay Brasserie brand has relied on catering to these groups of diners who bring forth familiar Indian tropes of clusters. It is the preferred spot for families, groups of friends, or team lunches — usually loud but sometimes silent and awkward. Their food dabbles with the familiar too. The kebabs, appetisers, breads and biryani are not particularly new to the Indian palette. However, there are stray dishes with twists, drinks with spices and desserts uncommon in Chennai, that continue to draw patrons to the joint.
Banarasi chaat | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
After their two-month hiatus from the Chennai food scene, the restaurant is back with interiors that cater to Instagram. There are colourful kites in a sunlit, air-conditioned, closed patio. A wall of brass davara tumblers and another laden with Russian dolls wearing Indian clothes.
The food also announces its arrival. Appetisers require one to interact with them and play with portions. Take for instance, the hot khadi samosa stuffed with well-mashed potatoes and peas. Atop the freshly fried samosa, one must pour creamy khadi and add generous smatterings of imli chutney to cut through the fat. Bhujiya is a welcome addition to this bowl, adding crunch. The dish substitutes the plebian curd for the enhanced khadi, adding quite the fusion of flavours.
The enclosed patio with kites at Bombay Brasserie | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
The dessert is a theatrical affair too. Think soft rasgullas floating in rabdi, topped with mango compote, a mouthful already, arriving in a bowl of smoke and dry ice. Food at the restaurant is no longer a straightforward affair. The move is deliberate, keeping with the trends in the food and beverage industry, says Ranjan Chakraborty, business head, Bombay Brasserie. “Earlier, a restaurant was only limited to food. One could sell a single dish and succeed. Now standalone restaurants must focus on the look, feel and vibe; how the dish comes to you,” he says.
Are the theatrics alone enough to propel the enterprise forward? While the samosa in the pool of khadi works, the ras-e-aam disappoints despite being a widely popular dessert, according to the staff. The mango compote tastes like it is made out of a can, lacking a sense of having come from the king of fruits. The sugary sweetness of the rasgulla and the rabdi, unfortunately take a while to blend, presenting an odd bite.
An array of dishes at Bombay Brasserie, Chennai | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The 120-seater restaurant however, excels at what it does best. The rajputana murg soola kebab is charred to perfection, marinated with a heady mix of spices — particularly pound coriander seeds. The tikka kebab biryani which arrives in a massive clay pot lends itself to a perfect amalgamation of flavours. It can serve a hungry twosome but is definitely enough for three. The chicken is tender and full of flavour, falling apart at the first press. The amritsari aloo kulcha pairs well with the Punjabi cooker chicken.
Ranjan recommends their new additions of spiced fish fry tacos and fiery thecha prawn for those who enjoy seafood. There are bits of Kutch and Konkan on the menu too and an occasional peep from the South with the smoked Madras lollipop. He adds that the Amritsari kulfa, also engulfed in smoke and mirrors, makes a well-rounded end to the meal too. The rocky road ice cream, which can be shared by two, has been added to the dessert slate even though it steers away from their contemporary Indian theme. They are happy to accommodate crowd favourites to especially cater to children, Ranjan says.
Fish Tacos | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Bombay Brasserie has not drastically changed since its renovation and refurbished menu. Despite the pomp that it has now added to its interiors and dessert, at its core, it remains a dining space aiming to please families. There will be hearty portions of familiar Indian food, overlapping conversation, something sweet to finish the meal, and a showdown to pay the bill.
A meal for two at Bombay Brasserie costs approximately ₹1,800. The restaurant is at 3, College Road, Nungambakkam.
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The Hindu MetroPlus / Chennai / food and dining (general)
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