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January 04, 2024 08:18 pm | Updated January 05, 2024 03:33 pm IST
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Periamet Nalli Kurma Ramen at Madras Borough | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Over the years, Chennai has become the birthplace of several iconic dishes such as Kasimedu meen kuzhambu, Saidapet vadacurry, Alsa mall bread omelette and roadside kaalan. The recently opened Madras Borough in OMR aims to bring in all these iconic city flavours under one roof.
Madras Borough ambience | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
The decor of the restaurant is fairly simple with comfortable couches wrapped in a green and yellow colour palette. There are board games and VR simulations to enjoy with the meal.
We play scrabble as we wait for the first dish. While we expect to begin with a Madras-themed one, we are served French onion soup instead. Beneath the thick layer of solidified cheese, the lukewarm, sweet soup tuns out to be a pinch of salt away from becoming an onion porridge, and is disappointing.
Next comes the Madras kaalan cappuccino, served in a coffee mug with a generous sprinkle of spiced cornflakes on top. The warm and earthy notes of the mushroom soup are complemented by the salty, pleasingly crunchy cornflakes.
Saidapet Masal Vadai with hummus and pita | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Their popular Saidapet masala vada is served with fluffy pita and hummus, with chilli powder sprinkled on top. The dish lives up to the “falafel with a twist” expectation, as the vada is spiced with copious amounts of Bengal gram and fennel seeds. As the popular Vadivelu dialogue goes, “Masal vada masal vada dhan ya!”
The tempura prawns here are big, crisp, and fried to golden perfection. They comes with a cup of ‘Marina’ chutney. While the batter coating on the prawns is a little too thick, the chutney made with ginger and peanuts which is inspired by the tangy side served with bajjis on the beach, makes us reachfor one more serving.
“The guests that come here favour the Madras themed dishes, mainly because of how nostalgic these flavours make them feel. OMR is far from the city and given the traffic, these gems are almost inaccessible. So items like Alsa mall bread omelette or Mount Road mutton and mozzarella cigarillo are very popular,” says Virgin Shiny, manager.
After seeing pictures and reels of their signature Periamet nalli kurma idiyappam ramen, we decide to try it . Two chunks of the nalli sit in a thick yellow kurma beside a tangle of soft idiyappam and boiled egg. The kurma is rich with a blend of spices including cinnamon, bayleaf, and coconut, laced with a drizzle of chilli oil. The meat on the mutton pieces fall off the bone, waiting to be eaten with the gravy. To honour the true art of devouring nalli, we crack open the bone for the buttery marrow in the centre.
We explore beyond the city’s pincodes and try the spicy chicken sausage mac and cheese. The pasta is perfectly al dente, but the sauce while flavourful, is a bit dry.
While most dishes that are not Madras-themed require some work, the waffles with fried chicken and hot honey from their all-day breakfast menu is delightful. The waffles both soft and crispy, become an ideal canvas for the flavourful fried chicken with a chilli infused honey.
The experience of dining there, is a ticket to nostalgia and feels like a food trail through the city.
Madras Borough is at 20, Raju Nagar 1st Main Road, Raj Nagar, Thoraipakkam. A meal for two costs ₹1,500. The restaurant is open from 11am to 11pm
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