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August 17, 2023 01:32 pm | Updated 01:32 pm IST
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Natukottai Nandu soup | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Bearing a lion flag, Pallavas, a new restaurant, has opened on Sterling road in Nungambakkam.
This dynasty covered a significant part of the Indian peninsula and its namesake aims to serve up dishes from all across this region. The restaurant is where south Indian favourites including Maplai and later Thiru Kuppusamy Unavagam used to be. While it might seem like this is another restaurant cut from the same cloth, Vignesh Prakasam, one of the partners, is confident they will make a mark with authentic recipes and biryanis from every region. 
“This restaurant is a result of our love for south Indian delicacies. While there are endless options to choose from, we have focused on bringing in some staples like vathalkuzhambu, biryani, mutton chukka some not-so-popular traditional dishes like Mangalorean patrode. There are also some fusions like Broccoli mapas and elaneer payasam tres leches to our menu,” says Vignesh. 
Pallavas interiors | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
The walls are covered with brightly coloured art like the painting of a kathakali mask and framed kalamkari fabric.
At the pre-launch tasting, we try the set menu. We begin with a glass of panakam, a sweet beverage made with dry ginger, jaggery and a splash of lemon. Under the sweet and tangy layers, streaks of cardamom elevate the drink. 
For soups, there are mushroom and crab variants. The mushroom soup takes on the flavour of Madras curry, made with turmeric, cumin, coriander, peppers and chilli. The natukottai nandu soup is hearty, light and packs a punch. The meat is tender and the spices from the soup get us ready for the next course. 
Among the starters, the vegetarian kola urundai and kappa ittadhu stand out. The kola urundai has a vegan alternative made with banana blossom and is mildly spiced, fluffy in the centre and crispy on the outside. The kappa fritters are simple, shallow fried with onions. 
We try a Manglorean prawn ghee roast, which is decadent without being overpowering. The kodi vepudu, a fried chicken from Andhra Pradesh is made with cashews and a blend of spices, but the heat from the guntur chilli is dominant and lacked salt. 
Dindigul biryani | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
We try the Dindigul biryani next made with seeraga samba rice, which is rather dry although the mutton pieces in it are juicy. It pairs well with spicy, tangy mutton gongura.
The menu also features palakai or jackfruit paya, served with appams fresh off the pan. The use of baby jackfruit makes the meat in the gravy tender as it soaks up the paya.
“We have brought in chefs from different regions to make sure flavours are authentic,” says Vignesh, adding “We are hoping to serve guests who come in together for family meals, so we have dishes that cater to different dietary preferences and spice thresholds.”
Given the growing in interest in millets and heritage rice varieties, they also serve millet-based dishes.
We try the ukkara, a traditional sweet made for Diwali with lentils, jaggery and ghee. It is light without being too sweet. The kavuniarisi halwa on the other hand, made with black kavuni rice is overloaded with ghee disallowing us to go in for seconds. 
The a la carte menu features meal combos from every region of south India with a set of gravies, breads and biryani apart from the sambar, rasam, poriyal, kootu, curd staples. While these options are tailor-made for lunches, there are light dinner combos with parotta, dosa, idli, idiyappam, appam and curries. Excited for their first Onam sadhya, Vignesh informs that he is bringing aboard a team of chefs from Kerala for the feast.
Pallavas is on 14/1, Sterling Ave, Nungambakkam. Here a meal for two costs ₹1500. 
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